Shortlist 2005

The 2005 entry is as varied as ever in content, ranging from major biography and autobiography through philosophy, thriller, climbing controversy, local hero celebration, expeditioning, mountain rescue and survival, by authors from the United States, Tasmania, Nepal and all corners of the UK. The judges have shortlisted five titles from the fifteen submissions which, in alphabetical order of author, are:

Learning to Breathe, by Andy Cave, published by Hutchinson

Andy Cave's autobiography telling the story of his journey from working as a miner during the 1984 miners' strike to his emergence at the forefront of British alpine climbing and a gripping conclusion on Changabang.

On Thin Ice, by Mick Fowler, published by Bâton Wicks

The clilmbing taxman's second book of adventures, climbing at the highest standard in all the world's great ranges. Marked by a wonderful dry humour and modesty, his achievements are all the remarkable because of the context of a conventional career and a young family.

The Villain: the Life of Don Whillans, by Jim Perrin, published by Hutchinson

A detailed and compassionate view of the life of a complex and often difficult character, who was one of the key figures in British climbing since the last war. The book is in turns funny, sad, thrilling and infuriating as one is suddenly confronted with such a rapid decline of a giant personality in our sport.

Broad Peak, by Richard Sale, published by Carreg

A new and somewhat controversial account of the first ascent of Broad Peak in 1957, largely using material made available by the first men to the summit, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller. The book attempts to tell the full story of the climb and also reveals more about the death of Hermann Buhl on Chogolisa.

Mountain Rescue: Chamonix - Mont Blanc, by Anne Sauvy, published by Bâton Wicks

A close and personal observation of the world's busiest mountain rescue service over the whole summer of 1997. This book gives deep and moving insights into the high pressure of this type of work and the often tragic loss of life in the Mont Blanc range. A grave book in many ways.